Down the Danube from Budapest to Bucharest: Republic of Croatia

Vukovar

Following World War II, Marshall Josef Tito cobbled Yugoslavia together past times combining a release of previously autonomous states. When he died, the handle of those countries, starting fourth dimension amongst Republic of Croatia as well as Slovenia, to find independence brought simmering resentments as well as prejudices to the fore. The confrontations were ugly, inwards many cases involving ethnic cleansing, starting fourth dimension at Vukovar where 1,500 militia members battled a 20,000-strong, well-armed Serbian regular army that wanted to concur Yugoslavia together. When the final defender died xc days later, a massacre ensued.

Vukovar H2O tower. Photos © past times Judy Wells.

Unrestored building.

Most of the urban heart was destroyed every bit was its release i business, the industry of shoes. Physically, much has been repaired as well as restored, but the urban heart nevertheless shows the results as well as its guides brand certain visitors ask heed their side. Some of the buildings cause got been left alone,  peculiarly the bullet-riddled H2O tower that in i lawsuit boasted a revolving restaurant, as well as straightaway is a symbol of the urban heart as well as country's successful resistance.

Church of  St. Philip as well as St. Jacob, after the state of war above, as well as now.

After a guitar as well as cello concert past times 2 talented students at the local music academy, nosotros walked to the 17th century Franciscan Church of St. Philip as well as St. Jacob. Largely destroyed during the war, it has been lovingly restored.

Downtown Vukovar.

The in i lawsuit booming urban heart middle (only a quarter of the prewar population has returned) is flat, a boon for Levelers. The Maria Theresa-era baroque mode architecture adds grace to the almost empty streets.

Influenza A virus subtype H5N1 please to see is Castle Eltz.  http://www.turizamvukovar.hr/vukovar_eng.php?stranica=170. The 18th century dwelling has live the Vucovar Municipal Museum, amongst creative displays ranging from Neolithic artifacts to exquisitely embroidered clothing.

Tip: The museum is compact as well as in that location is an elevate that connects all floors.

Osijek

Influenza A virus subtype H5N1 brusque motorbus trip takes us to the urban heart saved past times ferrets. Hit past times the plague inwards 1738, Osijek seemed doomed until urban heart fathers brought inwards a forcefulness of famished ferrets. The beasts made brusque operate of the diseased, plague-carrying rats. We encounter icons of ferrets inwards the urban heart seal as well as advertisements.

Historic Trinity Square was filled amongst the monthly antiquities fair, a glorified flea marketplace ringed past times booths of nutrient purveyors. We were turned unloosen to see the cathedral as well as other buildings, but I can't tell you lot almost them. Wandering the foursquare as well as people watching was much to a greater extent than fun than yet some other church building or museum.

Tip: Arrive on the firstly Sabbatum of the  calendar month to grab the Fair. The Square as well as the streets simply about it are cobblesone, but apartment aside from a curb-height measuring or two.

We are welcomed to the dwelling of Zorica as well as Voja Vojislav.

The nutrient looked grand but nosotros were to split into little groups to cause got luncheon inwards nearby local homes. I institute it a fun sense amongst genial, gracious hosts as well as the best apple tree strudel our lucky grouping of nine had always tasted.

Returning to River Splendor that afternoon provided the chance to larn a closer hold off at riverfront sculptures, all memorials to those who died inwards the Serbian-Croatian war.

All inwards all, an slow solar daytime for Levelers.